Hope you find it.  There are some mowers that hook from the top of the gearbox to the back of the deck, or some that hook from the back of the gearbox to the bottom rear of deck, but the most common is front of box upwards.  like this example https://thegardenmachineryforum.co.uk/index.php?msg=2758


Sorry I can't be more helpful on this one. 

Hi Mick. Thanks for your reply. I think i need to look again using a mirror for that attachment on the gearbox and perhaps run my hand over the plastic deck and tin work to see if i can feel the attachment for the other end of the spring!! It's a shame that access isn't great!! Thanks again.

Hi, and welcome to TGMForum.

I've serviced a few carburettors these Gardenline machines but never had to fit the tension spring on one. 

So all I can say is the tension spring usually hooks in a small hole at the front of the gearbox, and then hooks upwards onto either the plastic deck in front of it, or onto the tinwork above, usually in a hole or a notch for the spring to latch onto.  It basically just tips the gearbox backwards to provide tension on the belt.

Looking at your photos it's not obvious where it was originally fitted but there must be a hole somewhere, perhaps plugged with dirt if the spring has been missing for a while.

Good afternoon. My dad has a Gardenline (Aldi) 46 cm self propelled petrol mower that has lost its gearbox tensioner spring so the drive belt kept slipping off. We have purchased a new spring but can not see where to attach both ends of it!! Has anyone got any advice / pictures as to where it goes. I've included a couple of pictures if that helps. Many thanks

Thanks @Mick , good to hear from you.

I went with a complete second hand engine, I will drop it in when it arrives, hopefully next week.

My local mower mechanic and I were concerned about that dent -- it's a little lower than the witness but might have caused a crack or could damage the oil wiper ring, so I could be throwing good money after bad if I try repair this one. I'll keep the engine for a bit and if I can find a decent cylinder head then perhaps swap the parts over to have a spare/ resell.

Note to self to check oil more frequently!

Oops,    that's unfortunate.  Does look like lack of oil based on the blackening on the conrod and aluminium transfer onto the crank. You're lucky the balance weight or conrod didn't burst through the block. Is the camshaft still straight because they can get hit quite bad too. Also check where the two cam followers go through the block, because it can break the block there too.

Keep us posted with what you decide to do. 

Might give some of you a laugh, might make some of you cry...

Like a fool, I decided to do the verge cutting today in the 32C, and like a double fool, I had left some areas of the c.4800sq/m extra long for "no-mow" may.
Said areas had now grown to about 18" tall and despite taking it easy with a half cut, the combined load on the engine and (I suspect) not enough oil caused this mess (see pictures).

There's a dent in the cylinder wall, caused by the wonky thread that still resides in the conrod, but judging by the witness mark, the cylinder doesn't go that far down the cylinder, so I'm hopeful that a new conrod, gaskets and a valve (exhaust doesn't seat properly - might be a long-lived issue) gets me back to mowing without the need for a second hand engine or sending this mower to the scrapheap in the sky!

I read earlier that the B&S 13HP I/C engines are worth keeping, so hoping it's salvageable.
Off to our local shop tomorrow morning for an opinion...

That's a good question, and now you asked it I don't remember.  But here's what I think.

The engine if one of those switches hasn't been set should result in it not cranking, otherwise you could stand with your feet under the deck and blades engaged and turn the key, that would be enough to cause serious injury.  So I'd say it won't crank let alone start.

I would check to see if you have power down to the starter solenoid on the small wire which activates it. if yes then the solenoid has possibly died.  Does the solenoid click when you try to start it? 

Sounds like a silly question but hang on a mo.

This is an extract from Hayter 13/30 Tractor ride on lawn mower

Page 16

NOTE: The engine will not start unless you
depress the clutch/brake pedal or engage
the parking brake and move the blade rotation
control to the DISENGAGE position.

What does "will not start" mean?

Does it mean it will crank (ie: starter motor has power) but not start or does it mean it won't crank (ie: starter motor does not have power).

I have the latter problem.

Cranked and started a week ago. Just had other problems.
Came out today and dead as a door nail.
No crank.
Fully charged battery 12.8V

I was asked to take a look at a relatives Mountfield 827H 2014 ride-on mower - the throttle lever position makes no change to the RPM.
Taking a look at the governor it seems the breather tube interferes with one of the springs. That tube looks a very tight fit.
Anyone have a photo to show what it should be like please?