Quote from: plenjamin on June 07, 2026, 08:28:21 AM'll have a look at the harness when the new starter gets here, Talking of that, do you have any idea how to get the original wires off of the starter?

As a main dealer we usually change the starter motors as an assembly, that just has a plug on it like this https://www.gardenhirespares.co.uk/bp84005206-genuine-briggs-stratton-starter-motor-799241.html. (Note: might not be for your model)

I've never fitted just the motor into a starter assembly
 

Quote from: Mick on June 07, 2026, 03:42:06 AMdo you have a model number for it?

Yes, It's a Parkside PBME 575 A1.
The cable is quite rusted, so I assume that's just welded it on.
We ordered the new starter module as the starter had a some of the stuff at the top crack, and fall in causing it to lock up.

I'll have a look at the harness when the new starter gets here, Talking of that, do you have any idea how to get the original wires off of the starter?

Hi, and welcome to TGMForum.

The clicking you get from the starter on a B&S InStart is usually caused by a faulty wiring harness.  They modified them to cure this very problem. There's a few posts on here regarding this issue, and I've left a couple of example links below.

https://thegardenmachineryforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=545.0
https://thegardenmachineryforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=926.0

Regarding the cable issue, I'm not very familiar with this actual machine, do you have a model number for it?

Hello all! I will start by saying I am new to this forum, and have only come here seeking advice.

I recently bought a Parkside mower from FB Marketplace for £15 with a Briggs and Stratton 575is engine (it apparently does run). When I got it, the starter would click click click, only slightly turning the engine over. The starter is now locked up unfortunately, and of no use. After doing some research I think I found the DC motor that powers the starter. It seems to be similar to one from a Makita Drill. (629817-8 - https://www.sparepartsworld.co.uk/product/629817-8)

It also has a locked up drive cable, and the end is broken off on the handle side so it doesn't mount, but it can't be pulled by hand. It's all (the whole mower) bit rusty & corroded, but it's all just surface, I can't poke a hole in any of it.

Mainly wondering if it was a good deal, if I got the right starter and what I should do about the rust and corrosion. (yes it came with a battery and charger).
Thanks in advance.

Glad you got there in the end.  I'd also forgotten about that spring.  I would usually hook that back on before putting the push on fix back on the roller frame for the levelling mechanism, it allows the roller frame to be swung down so you can hook it on easier.

Dead right Mick it was fiddly especially the tensioner mech and all those washers etc. I have not tested because I have a spring and an odd star lock washer which I haven't found a home for. Its not the tensioner or balancer spring on the left of the roller (stood behind the mower) as I fitted those. Its very strong, about 6 inches long and one inch diameter. I looked everywhere and cant find photos. It dropped out from somewhere when the mower was on its side.

EDIT: It IS the assist spring under the right cover (which I never removed). Just re-reading your post above took me to it. I couldn't fathom where it appeared from. Part 13 on the diagrams.

I wasted a whole load of time on this job before I joined your forum because I'd wrongly assumed the gearbox frame had to be removed from the deck to remove the transmission box, but of course all that needed to be done was to drill out the rivets and thanks to you I found that out.

AI came up with this as a suitable replacement, apparently perfektGarden (German brand) are reputable pattern parts that fit well.??

https://www.amazon.co.uk/perfektGarten-Connecting-compatible-Stratton-494504S

Thoughts welcome.

New second hand engine fitted. Runs sweet, and starts easier than the old one too!

I also acquired another 13/30 over the weekend for £50 with the same issue, decent condition all around otherwise. I'm hoping the cylinder is ok and I can rebuild and sell it to help offset the engine purchase.

Anyone have any experience with the "comparable" con rods on Amazon/eBay over OEM?

Thanks,
Rich

Story to this point.

Under a tarp for decades. Not garaged.

No crank. Starter solenoid broken.

Replaced solenoid. Still no crank.

Checked seat, bin and PTO switches.

Replaced seat and bin switches.

Crank but no start.

Checked fuel. Looked like lemonade.

Air filter looked like the inside of your nan's chimney in the 1940s.

Put new fuel in with new air and fuel filters.

Crank but no start.

Checked for spark. No spark.

Replaced spark plug.

Still no spark.

Checked the ignition coil.

Normal resistance should be between 3k Ohms and 5 kOhms.

Reads 48 kOhms.

Replaced ignition coil.

Engine starts but running dog rough and backfiring.

Suspected timing. Removed the flywheel to check the key.

Key was ok so cleaned all the crud from between the magnets and reinstalled it.

Checked the carb and notice it was flooding.

Removed and tore down carb. Full of crepe and corrosion.

Replaced the carb.

Running a lot better but still not perfect. Hunting and stalling.

I'm thinking I may just need to tune the new carb.

It's a Briggs and Stratton 12.5HP single cylinder engine.

I have read that bent push rods can be a problem on this engine.

But I think it's running too well for that I reckon.

What do y'all think?

All contributions welcome.

Thanks

Watch this

http://213.122.143.242:163/EngineRunning.mp4

Hope you find it.  There are some mowers that hook from the top of the gearbox to the back of the deck, or some that hook from the back of the gearbox to the bottom rear of deck, but the most common is front of box upwards.  like this example https://thegardenmachineryforum.co.uk/index.php?msg=2758


Sorry I can't be more helpful on this one.