Hi all...found the issue.....the grease in the drive gears behind the wheel was so dry and set it wasnt letting the little pin locate properly... so...chip away old grease and use light oil and all is well....hope this helps someone

Hi chaps.....well I'm trying to help another friend....here we have a mountfield sp53h that has no drive.......check done so far....check belt (new )check drive wheel cogs..done adjust clutch (behind flap 6mm)done....adjust cable..feels good and smooth..done..Im thinking gearbox...od any advise...cheers

Hi Changy.

I normally only fit genuine coils on customers machines because of the amount of stuff I've read about the aftermarket ones being a bit hit or miss. That said, I have in the past used after market carbs and coils on my own stuff which has worked out great.

All I can say is it's a gamble.  For the cost it's probably worth a try, even better if you can get your money back if it doesn't work.

I'm assuming you customer is using them commercially in which case they get a lot of heavy use.  Trouble is they don't let them idle for a few seconds prior to switching off and that can cook the coils from the heat of the engine.  While running they get air to cool them.  Idling after a work run give the engine a chance to cool slightly before switching off. They used to put this in the operators manuals but not sure it is now.     

I must be a sucker for punishment. One of my biggest customers brought a selection of Stihl leaf blowers that were sitting in his store collecting dust. None of them would start, and all three of the Sh86 models have faulty coils. In all my time fixing small machines, that's the most faulty coils I have seen.

Has anyone used aftermarket coils? I can buy Chinese versions for £10 each, which is a big saving assuming they are any good.

TIA

Keep us posted on the outcome.  I can see your metal tab is bent outwards giving this a slight bend in a clockwise direction should remedy this. 

Thanks Mick, I'll go back and have a play to get it to hackle right.

@openspaceman The linkage is all there and looks fine.  I can't see from the image if anything else is bent because of the tight image crop. If you could attach another image showing a bit more of the linkage it would help.

But basically that metal tab just to the right of the choke shaft should catch on the edge of the opening and flip the choke shaft on / off. It could be that the linkage is hitting the rest of the bracket before the tab reaches the shaft, (tab is bent too far back) or the shaft is stiff.

Edit:  Just had a quick search on Youtube to see if anyone had posted a video, found this one which shows exactly what I was saying. https://youtu.be/USx5IMxLiBQ?si=dR__Oz7Xjn3NhOxx

Hi Mick, it has been a while again. I have a similar picture of a B&S carburetor linkage but can't see how the choke works, is it applied by the throttle cable position and the various bit of linkage knock it off when the throttle is opened or is a plastic choke control missing from the centre of the choke butterfly I have marked in bright red?


The mower is a Masport 950, the lady could not start it but as soon as I flipped the choke butterfly on its over-centre spring arrangement it fired immediately but I had to flip it over-centre the opposite way to open the choke. I just wonder if a choke control lever is missing.

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