now to figure out some air filtration. I'm thinking trying to hook that throttle cable to this engine wouldn't work. The throw is so much greater on the control.

When I replied earlier I could see the cable mounting point on the bracket below the lever but it looked like it's never been used and the clamp is missing. Also couldn't see a hole in the actual lever for the end of the cable to hook into. I guess for whatever application the engine was originally for just used the hand control and no cable. 

If the lever is free enough for a cable to move it you could drill a small hole in it near the pivot point for the cable to hook into. Or just settle for using the hand control that's on the engine as is.

Just don't get yourself tangled up in the rotors. And maybe fit a kill switch up on the handles for safety.

This last couple days the work bench was my bout trailer. I bought a 14' fidhing boat and trailer during covid, and never got around to checking out the trailer wheel bearings. This year I hope to actually use it a bit, so didn't want to get stranded on the side of the highway. I'm glad I did! I had to replace all the hub bearings and grease seals. Parts have sure got expensive.

Quote from: MillRat on February 26, 2024, 04:08:03 PM  now to figure out some air filtration. I'm thinking trying to hook that throttle cable to this engine wouldn't work. The throw is so much greater on the control.

Just looked at you tiller vid again. 

Something I noticed when I heard it running, especially when you engaged the rotors.  It sounds like you have the engine speed regulated via the idle speed screw on the top of the carb rather than it being regulated by the governor spring and governor.  Hence why the engine speed dips when you engage the rotors.  That might be something you need to check Jeff.