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The only reason it wouldn't stop is if the stop wire terminal isn't going to ground when in the stop position. 

So like I mentioned earlier, it's either a broken or loose wire, the control plate is not contacting the switch, The control plate is insulated and not earthing to the engine, which I don't think I've ever seen, or a bad coil where the stop terminal has broken connection inside the coil.

Definitely check that wire if it seems floppy, as it's a solid wire and should feel the same for its entire length.

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Hi HayterNovice, and welcome to TGMF..

It's likely to be one or both of the rollers dropping out of drive as you mentioned. You can usually see them slipping by holding the machine slightly up by the handles, engage the drive and slowly lower it to the ground observing the rollers, see if one of them is stopping.   

What is the model of your harrier? (On the silver sticker, example 490D).

Greg, do you mean the bowl drain bolt?  That's all I can think of, as some have them and some don't.  It's just a drain.

Quote from: Gregs mowing on March 24, 2024, 06:34:25 PMI didn't notice the black plastic plate that goes between carb and engine wasn't on correctly. Could that affect its running?

Yes if it's letting air in then it will cause issues.

Quote from: Gregs mowing on March 24, 2024, 06:34:25 PMAlso the second screw on the carb bowl. Should that locate on the little lug that sticks out on the "shaft"?

I have no idea what you are talking about there Greg, got a pic?

Greg, I edited your first post to add those images.

Hunting, either a gummed up carb, Really bad float level, or split inlet tube.

And as you mentioned it won't switch off.  Looks like all is ok there, unless the control plate isn't touching the switch contact.  Make sure it does touch it when in the off position.

If that's ok then you either have the stop wire disconnected from the coil, or a broken wire (Rare), or a faulty coil.

EDIT  Looking at the stop switch it looks like the wire is fitted incorrectly.  You need to push that metal piece the wire is hooked through now, and then poke the wire through the hole below it.

Greg, I don't see the pics on Insta either.  So what machine / engine, and what issues are you having?

Quote from: rs6mra on March 23, 2024, 02:10:11 PMI fitted the roller support but had to undo the height adjuster spring.
As a result I have wasted the entire day trying to get the spring back on. Have you any tips for this because I have just given up.

I usually cheat and change the bracket with the spring in place. That only applies to the early ones with a one piece conrod without tensioner lever.  On the later ones I release and remove the spring using the tensioning lever, and take the back end out completely, as it only takes a few minutes.

I think you can wrap a piece of starter rope or similar over the roller, and on to the end of the spring, and then tie to a lever bar.  Use the roller as a pulley.

See this video where Mick uses the starter rope to pull the spring back on, at around 32 minutes in.

Found the post regarding the upgraded double tensioner pulley, https://thegardenmachineryforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=267.msg653#msg653

Hi Andy, and welcome to TGMF. 

Hi Andrew.  The Legacy 56 uses two drive belts of the same size. https://jungle-busters.co.uk/product/weibang-drive-belt-legacy-48-56/

The double pulley in between did used to go bad on the early models, these used to have a spring in them which was made of cheese. They modified it later so it used cams to push the pulleys together and keep the belts tensioned. There's a post on here somewhere which I will link to when I find it.

The gearboxes do basically either work or not work, they have a dog type clutch which is either in or out and it uses proper gears in the gearbox.

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