Hayter 13/30 not starting

[richhemmings]

Hi all,

Looking for some help.

I recently bought this Hayter 13/30 (Code 131S) and I saw it running before purchase, and ran it for 2 minutes after delivery... however 3 days later after storing it outside (warm weather, touch of rain under a tarp) - it wont start.
My fists suspicion was the battery -- but it had 12.3V and 10 when cranking. It has now died, but I have tried a good battery and this didn't help either -- I also applied volts directly to the starter to make sure no issues with the safety switches. Engine turns.
I checked for spark - all good there too.

Checked the airbox - all looked good initially, although wet after an hour of messing around (I think petrol is flooding the carb and then running back into the airbox).

The carb leaked fuel after a few attempts - from the seam between the float bowl and the carb body.
I took the carb off, cleaned it with carb spray and compressed air and put it all back together. Same results.
I noticed that the gasket is very tired which I suspect is cause for the leak and I am wondering if the routing of the gasket is preventing fuel from entering the main jet (see image and red circle).
The back of the butterfly valve in the carb was grubby with a light coat of something grey and sticky on the back (engine) side.
I should add that there was some dirt in the fuel tank which made it to the filter, I subsequently replaced it with the new one you see in the pics.

I noted that the fuel hose is rather long and the fuel has a large drop and then uphill climb to get back to the carb, so amended this in the pics to have a gentle downhill to the carb inlet -- I'm not sure if this is a factor due to previous running. Fresh fuel has been used.

When I checked the spark plug it wasn't burnt or wet. The gap is a little under 1.1mm which is within spec as far as I know after a quick google this morning (G3F plug).

I was able to get some backfire by spraying carb cleaner directly into the inlet manifold and the engine ran for about 15 seconds.
My suspicion is that no fuel is getting into the cylinder.

I've subsequently ordered a cheap kit from Amazon with replacement carb, filters and plug which I will try over the weekend and update - but wondered if anyone has any thoughts in the meantime.

Thanks for reading this protracted post and for your comments in advance.
Rich

[Mick]

Hi Rich, and welcome to TGMForum.

Those Nikki carbs are an absolute pain in the backside if I'm being honest. The rubber gasket will expand and pop out of shape at the earliest opportunity when you remove the float plate assembly.  Also the main jets will fall out of the middle of it if loose on its o-ring. 

Hopefully your replacement will be more like the Walbro type than the crappy Nikky carb.

Taryl doesn't like them either.    https://youtu.be/CtrVVh1qFQc?si=zEjOPrhAoYgCdPUs

[richhemmings]

Cheers Mick,

I've no idea which type it is? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09BN9ZYFF -- but reviews say its compatible with this machine and I liked that it has a bolt on the bottom of the float chamber which I hope will make it easier to drain for the winter (one on the machine doesn't).
Someone has been at the carb before - as evidenced by the slightly marred Philips head!

I'm cautiously optimistic.

[Mick]

That's the better Walbro style carb, so assuming it works it should be a better carb in the long run. It doesn't have stupid plastic insert and seal in it. 

I might give the spark plug a miss though, they can be of dubious quality.

Let us know how it goes.   

[richhemmings]

Fitted the new carb today and exactly the same result - except without a leak from the body of the carb.
I tried starting with a couple of spare batteries I had -- but both suspect as they were second hand and had died on cars (I use them to run low power motors on occasion). Turning over sounded weak, so I went for the jump-lead to the Land Rover option -- 12V 70Ah 640 CCA (about double the rating of the original battery). Still nothing - although the jump leads got warm

Took the carb off again to make sure nothing was blocking the inlet manifold (figured it was ok as there's a noticeable suck from the airbox return and the intake manifold itself). Noticed some brown sludge inside the manifold - nothing major, cleaned it out with some carb clean and a digit. Also noted the back of the value was sooty, but nothing to be concerned about(??).
Carb back on. Went heavy with the carb spray while cranking and the motor surged into life. Let it run for a couple of minutes, turned off, switched back to the original battery and it started right up again. Brilliant.
A few more starts and everything seemed good. I dropped the deck to inspect it (and recover a lost nut) - let the engine cool for 20 mins or so... and tried again - Joy of joys, it started right up.

This is where the tale turns sour... I've left the machine for a few hours and gone back to try it again, and it turned, but now is weak to turn and wont start. I'm suspecting the battery is not in the best condition, but it was strong for the first few turns. It's showing just over 12v unloaded, and about 7v when cranking -- Google says this should be about 10?

As I drafted this I thought about taking a new battery (a loaner, sat for a while, but assumed good) - checked 12.54V. put jump leads from the battery to the starter and hey presto.
I think a new battery is the next step!

[richhemmings]

New battery in and starts like a dream.

Now if I can get the lights to work... #WinterJob


Thanks for all your help Mick.

[Mick]

Thanks for all your help Mick.

I don't think I was much help tbh.   Glad you got it sorted though, nice job.