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Messages - Gregs mowing

#1
On Your Bench / Re: Hayter and Weibang roller systems
February 02, 2025, 10:31:38 AM
Fair enough Mick. Thanks for the response. Thanks for the link to the bearing separator kit. I did buy one ages ago but haven't got it at the shop where all my tools are. Something to remember.

They've had the cut out in the frame on the hayyter pros for a little while now. As it's easier to get the roller assembly in with the new seal plates. Although I have fitted one or two with seal plates to not cut out frames. It is a bit harder admittedly so glad they put the slot in. Have you seen any cases where the frame has been damaged where the slot it and it's caught a hard surface? Looking at it in use it looks like the slot is facing straight down so I do worry if it gets caught. Thought the speed they go at it'll probably just glide over or bump across.
Recon the new seal plates are doing the job?

Do you know when the 60v pro 48+56's are out?
Will be good to see how these go. I intend on getting the 48! 
#2
On Your Bench / Hayter and Weibang roller systems
February 01, 2025, 03:10:29 PM
Hi guys. Seen lots of talk of people not so happy with Hayter's drive system. I know they have a few changes including seal plates, to stop the drive cams coming out, new roller frame to reduce the build up of mud behind the roller and reduce the strain on the gearbox. A* to Hayter for effort to try and make things better and more robust.
Ultimately there are still issues in my option. Roller shells are made out of too thin metal. The chain guard should be all metal and made out of harder wearing metal. Seen loads where a hole has appeared through the metal strip. There's still load of mud and mud balls that get stuck between the centre of the rollers. And final big issue is the dry bearing roller bearing / bushes. Which has a honeycomb style of manufacturer and result in the hole becoming elongated and need replacing, if they were solid it must be better. In fact the honeycomb construction is very similar to the starter housing mounting bolt holes on the Kawasaki fj engines.

Are and dealers on here hearing of significant upgrades coming from Hayter?

Secondly a fair few people have jumped to buying Weibang roller mowers. As they are abusing contractors and don't like being told they are abusive and have repair bills for Hayter machines being repaired. So they buy a Weibang thinking it's a tank. Which granted with a Kawasaki engine and its significant weight it does feel well built. But surely too long and too heavy for most contractors. Main question is. For those that have worked on a few Weibang drive and Hayter drive systems. Which is actually better?
I was tasked on working on a legacy 56 roller and after the flimsy side panels were removed. The pointless spring clips removed around the sprockets and then the pins knocked out allowing the chain and sprockets to come off. Two screws each side easily came off with a plate each side.
Then it went down hill!  A proper bearing each side of the roller frame. With no grease on was the enemy for the next hour or two. Completely corroded onto the roller shaft. Various methods of heat, pry bars and swear words were no match. Even when the outer ring of the housings were off and tried hitting the remainder on an anvil in true metal worker fashion they still wouldn't have come off. Not knowing how old this machine is however. Suggests these aren't the easiest to work on. I was told by a mechanic of 20+ years that he had one which was 3 months old and the bearings were seized on even then! And he refuses point blank to do drive work to a Weibang ever again! 
Were we just unlucky or is there fundamental design issues of a lack of workshop ability on the weibangs?  I know they have done few things to the drives over the years, most recent is a thicker roller shaft and thus everything else like shells are different to accommodate the thicker shaft as they were snapping. Like a cowboys leg.
The way the bearings are stuck even to the roller frame seems very odd to me and the fact so much effort is required with seemingly no sensible way of levering them off is daft. When stuck onto the shaft it reminds of of the old Hayter's from 2006-2018 with the crap roller bearings then which seized on but you could just about get crowbar under them or a puller but you had access to attack them.

So what's worse? Hayter which realistically commercially lasts a year at most. But easy and quick and relatively cheap to rebuild. Or a drive from Weibang which lasts longer but is a nightmare to work on with everything seized on, metal on metal. ?
Cheers.
#3
General Discussion / Weibang virtue 77
July 21, 2024, 06:32:36 PM
Hi Mick and others.

Has anyone had any feedback on the new twin blade, 100kg, 77cm mower from Weibang? Can't see much on YouTube in terms of reviews but have seen the odd post in Facebook regarding an issue?

And in general what's the main faults with the virtues and legacy mowers?
#4
Hayter / Re: Harrier 41 VS ES speed issue
July 21, 2024, 06:30:51 PM
Hello Andy.

Interesting to hear your findings of the speed of the harrier too quick. I've found that at my dealership also and no one can do much about it. I am sure Mick might know regarding the gearbox speed. Yes the gearboxes are used my many manufacturers but have custom shaft lengths.
Ultimate factor though is the engine speed. Quicker it goes quicker the gearbox shaft spins.

Did you not consider the Hawk? I have one and where I normally find the Hayter pros a bit quick on max speed the hawk on max is a nice speed so it will go even slower as it has infinite variable drive. Yes it's a cheaper mower but still designed and tested by the chaps at Hayter. But not bolted together in their factory in Spellbrook.
#5
Hayter / Re: Harrier 56 pro current 579
May 17, 2024, 09:15:41 PM
mick. Seems as though they are doing something. Seen some new pros and used pros with cut outs on the roller frame by the non chain end roller bearing. You know what this is for?
And have you seen the new seals? From the part drawings the end caps are new as well. Probably just got holes in for the seals to be screwed.
#6
General Discussion / Re: Hayter gearboxes.
April 06, 2024, 08:11:44 PM
Not yet. I know dealer trialed them last year and it helped drive last longer by a few months but still let in dirt and water. Hopefully Hayter refined it.
#7
General Discussion / Re: Hayter gearboxes.
April 06, 2024, 07:06:29 PM
Seen the new seals?
#8
General Discussion / Re: Hayter gearboxes.
April 06, 2024, 06:56:19 PM
Maybe n more reliable but from a user pov the 56 gearbox is crap in pro use. Too slow to engage.
#9
Nice one. What tool do you use to take the small sprocket off current harriers?
And to get the metal belt cover off the 56's? Can be stuck.
#10
General Discussion / Hayter gearboxes.
April 06, 2024, 05:33:50 PM
What's going on with these general transmission gearbox in the Hayter harriers?  Commercially lucky to get two years before the seals fail or another issue. The gt gearbox in the Toro commercial proline and prostripe (3speed) are lot more expensive but last a lot longer. It's pathetic really.

Mick have you seen the new seals Hayter are using this year over the caps to stop debris getting into the pins?
#11
Hectic here in Surrey at MPS Garden Machinery. 5/6 week wait to get onto the bench. Dozens of ride ons pre booked for service.
Phones little quieter than a week or two ago but once it dries up a little and people get their mowers out and panic because it won't work the phones will explode again.

Maybe in some areas of the country people either have more gardeners and the casual car boot beer money gardener and some use cheap mowers from bnq then replace every other year.
#12
General Discussion / Re: Echo pb8010 running
April 06, 2024, 11:35:26 AM
I don't see any high or low adjustment screws.
Maybe it needs new diaphragm and gaskets. They were kept on the machine. Would that also explain why it seems to be slightly leaking down the pipe?
#13
General Discussion / Echo pb8010 running
April 06, 2024, 10:37:40 AM
Hi. Got echo pb8010 in for repair. Wouldn't start.
Cleaned carb. Reconnected bottom hose the the clearer hose and new fuel filter. New spark plug. Started fine.
However when I took the spark plug boot off the boot came away from the lead. Put the lead back in the hole as best as I can by pushing it. Started fine.

However it can run very well and normal. It then it bogs down a bit.
Had a lot of smoke initially from exhaust. Think machine has been left outside for a bit.
Wondering why it would run rough on occasion?
Ticks over fine.

Thanks.
#14
General Discussion / Re: Stihl Briggs
March 30, 2024, 09:49:26 AM
Hi mick. Will send pics on insta. Done wire as said but still not turning off. Have looked at where wire connects to coil and seemed a bit floppy. Could coil be the issue? Engine runs fine now with new backplate
#15
General Discussion / Re: Stihl Briggs
March 24, 2024, 06:47:50 PM
Not got a pic at the moment Mick. There's a screw that's attached to the bowl from an angle. Like on some gcv Honda engines. Not sure what they do.