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Topics - Gregs mowing

#1
On Your Bench / Hayter and Weibang roller systems
February 01, 2025, 03:10:29 PM
Hi guys. Seen lots of talk of people not so happy with Hayter's drive system. I know they have a few changes including seal plates, to stop the drive cams coming out, new roller frame to reduce the build up of mud behind the roller and reduce the strain on the gearbox. A* to Hayter for effort to try and make things better and more robust.
Ultimately there are still issues in my option. Roller shells are made out of too thin metal. The chain guard should be all metal and made out of harder wearing metal. Seen loads where a hole has appeared through the metal strip. There's still load of mud and mud balls that get stuck between the centre of the rollers. And final big issue is the dry bearing roller bearing / bushes. Which has a honeycomb style of manufacturer and result in the hole becoming elongated and need replacing, if they were solid it must be better. In fact the honeycomb construction is very similar to the starter housing mounting bolt holes on the Kawasaki fj engines.

Are and dealers on here hearing of significant upgrades coming from Hayter?

Secondly a fair few people have jumped to buying Weibang roller mowers. As they are abusing contractors and don't like being told they are abusive and have repair bills for Hayter machines being repaired. So they buy a Weibang thinking it's a tank. Which granted with a Kawasaki engine and its significant weight it does feel well built. But surely too long and too heavy for most contractors. Main question is. For those that have worked on a few Weibang drive and Hayter drive systems. Which is actually better?
I was tasked on working on a legacy 56 roller and after the flimsy side panels were removed. The pointless spring clips removed around the sprockets and then the pins knocked out allowing the chain and sprockets to come off. Two screws each side easily came off with a plate each side.
Then it went down hill!  A proper bearing each side of the roller frame. With no grease on was the enemy for the next hour or two. Completely corroded onto the roller shaft. Various methods of heat, pry bars and swear words were no match. Even when the outer ring of the housings were off and tried hitting the remainder on an anvil in true metal worker fashion they still wouldn't have come off. Not knowing how old this machine is however. Suggests these aren't the easiest to work on. I was told by a mechanic of 20+ years that he had one which was 3 months old and the bearings were seized on even then! And he refuses point blank to do drive work to a Weibang ever again! 
Were we just unlucky or is there fundamental design issues of a lack of workshop ability on the weibangs?  I know they have done few things to the drives over the years, most recent is a thicker roller shaft and thus everything else like shells are different to accommodate the thicker shaft as they were snapping. Like a cowboys leg.
The way the bearings are stuck even to the roller frame seems very odd to me and the fact so much effort is required with seemingly no sensible way of levering them off is daft. When stuck onto the shaft it reminds of of the old Hayter's from 2006-2018 with the crap roller bearings then which seized on but you could just about get crowbar under them or a puller but you had access to attack them.

So what's worse? Hayter which realistically commercially lasts a year at most. But easy and quick and relatively cheap to rebuild. Or a drive from Weibang which lasts longer but is a nightmare to work on with everything seized on, metal on metal. ?
Cheers.
#2
General Discussion / Weibang virtue 77
July 21, 2024, 06:32:36 PM
Hi Mick and others.

Has anyone had any feedback on the new twin blade, 100kg, 77cm mower from Weibang? Can't see much on YouTube in terms of reviews but have seen the odd post in Facebook regarding an issue?

And in general what's the main faults with the virtues and legacy mowers?
#3
General Discussion / Hayter gearboxes.
April 06, 2024, 05:33:50 PM
What's going on with these general transmission gearbox in the Hayter harriers?  Commercially lucky to get two years before the seals fail or another issue. The gt gearbox in the Toro commercial proline and prostripe (3speed) are lot more expensive but last a lot longer. It's pathetic really.

Mick have you seen the new seals Hayter are using this year over the caps to stop debris getting into the pins?
#4
General Discussion / Echo pb8010 running
April 06, 2024, 10:37:40 AM
Hi. Got echo pb8010 in for repair. Wouldn't start.
Cleaned carb. Reconnected bottom hose the the clearer hose and new fuel filter. New spark plug. Started fine.
However when I took the spark plug boot off the boot came away from the lead. Put the lead back in the hole as best as I can by pushing it. Started fine.

However it can run very well and normal. It then it bogs down a bit.
Had a lot of smoke initially from exhaust. Think machine has been left outside for a bit.
Wondering why it would run rough on occasion?
Ticks over fine.

Thanks.
#5
General Discussion / Stihl Briggs
March 23, 2024, 06:07:47 PM
Hi Mick.

Couldn't upload pics of the Briggs in struggling with so I've messaged on insta if you can reply that'll be great.

Also cleaned out carb but still hunts... proper carb too not a plastic one. Any tips appreciated as always.
Cheers.

briggslinkage1.jpg

briggslinkage2.jpg

briggslinkage3.jpg
#6
On Your Bench / Honda gcv160
February 14, 2024, 05:04:37 PM
Hi. Got a Honda gcv160 on a Hayter 41 pro. Was running a little bit rough so took carb apart. Cleaned the holes with carb cleaner etc. put together and now fuel comes out of the bolt at the bottom of the bowl. Yes it's tight. Have I missed something?
I took the bowl off again and the float was pointing half way between horizontal and vertical. Does that help Mick?

What a pain these engines are compared to Briggs quantum engines.
#7
General Discussion / Stihl br420
November 29, 2023, 07:00:17 PM
Hi.
Got a 2019 Stihl br420. Starts fine but bogs down and doesn't run right. Often cuts out. Can run smoothly on half throttle lock on the choke lever.
Tried new carb. Same issue.
Wondering if it's plug or some filter or air leek?
Any help much appreciated as always.
#8
Hayter / Quantum engine revs
November 18, 2023, 05:55:26 PM
Hi Mick. Is there a reset with the screws on the Briggs quantum carb? Like the Stihl two strikes wind in all the way then back off 3/4 turn.
Can usually get the engine running sweet at full throttle but when I move the lever to low revs the revs stay the same. Have tried adjusting all three screws. The one just above the bowl with a flat head screw sometimes isn't always there.
Thanks.
#9
Hello Mick.
Firstly can't work out how to make a new post so replying to this.

Got a stubborn old harrier 48. 219 pre opc model.

Mower came in. Wouldn't start. So cleaned the carb. New plug and filter. Usual stuff. When I pull it no sign of life. And noticed the flywheel kept spinning. Is this normal as it has no brake?
Tried to attach pics but iPhone pics are soo large it seems. Will send on insta some pics.

Odd to get no sign of life despite cleaning carb thoroughly. New plug too.
#10
Hayter / Harrier 56 pro current 579
September 23, 2023, 02:37:40 PM
Hi Mick. Got a 56 pro current 579. Starts fine but runs quite rough and chugs a bit when revs are adjusted. Black smoke can appear quite frequently. Is this something to do with the float?
I tried a new white jet and made no difference.
Any help much appreciated.
#11
Hayter / 56 pro Running Rough
March 15, 2022, 06:14:19 PM
Hello Mick. Now on a 56 pro 579a. The engine fires up fine but sounds rough like on choke but never turns off. I have two and they are set up identical with the linkages and am assured by the owner it was running fine - allegedly.
Please see pics and tell me what I'm doing wrong. I cleaned out the carb and think it's all ok.
Can't add photos are too big please help. 
#12
General Discussion / Hayter drive belt 56cm deck.
November 01, 2021, 09:21:22 PM
So I've worked on the new Toro Prostripe and Hayter 56 pro. obviously same deck and cut but one thing I can't work out is how are you supposed to change the large drive belt?
It spins off the crank then onto a twin pulley. Can't work out an easy way to get the belt off without taking all the BBC stuff off, I did take the disc holder off (hold on by 2x14mm nuts) but the pulley with bearings wouldn't come off - any tools needed?

Any advice much appreciated.
#13
General Discussion / Hayter chain tensioner
October 31, 2021, 05:32:20 PM
So Hayter have finally done a chain tensioner for the 56cm platform.
I understand not for the 48cm as there is no room.

I got a price from my dealer for the kit as I'm keen to have it on my prostripe 560.
The kit includes the template to drill holes (all 2022 models have the tensioner fitted as standard)
But the kit also has load of drive parts and the kit costs over £200.
This seems ridiculous by Hayter to make it so unattractive to maintain our machines rather than just chucking away a chain and maybe sprockets after few months.
#14
General Discussion / Briggs autochoke on Stihl
October 23, 2021, 09:19:26 PM
A friend bought a new Stihl roller mower. Rm545. Briggs autochoke engine. It fires up fine. Then after a minute of use the engine starts to rub very rough. As though carb is dirty but it runs smooth after firing up. The mower is new with correct amount of oil and fuel cap isn't too tight. Thoughts please.
#15
Lawn mowers / Plastic
October 07, 2020, 08:15:25 PM
When will the stubborn companies. Hayter and Honda primarily do plastic boxes for their machines? The mowers with plastic boxes  Stihl mowers and Etesia all have a reputation of collecting wet grass. Mesh doesn't work all year. In the dry only.

Answers with proper answers  saying such and such will be making a box only please, not a debate.
#16
Lawn mowers / CHAIN COVERS
January 12, 2020, 04:50:04 PM
So what mowers have the best chain covers? The stihl is plastic with a metal strip on the bottom edges. Weibang are metal with a thick bit of metal from the same spec of metal as the blade on the corner that gets worn more. Hayter are just plastic and I've seen from my local dealer they are replacing them like mad. NEW 56 pro had a hole big enough for a golf ball to get through and that's only a season, appalling. It should be made so after 2 years off use that's when you want to start thinking about replacing belts and chain covers.