Hi guys. Seen lots of talk of people not so happy with Hayter's drive system. I know they have a few changes including seal plates, to stop the drive cams coming out, new roller frame to reduce the build up of mud behind the roller and reduce the strain on the gearbox. A* to Hayter for effort to try and make things better and more robust.
Ultimately there are still issues in my option. Roller shells are made out of too thin metal. The chain guard should be all metal and made out of harder wearing metal. Seen loads where a hole has appeared through the metal strip. There's still load of mud and mud balls that get stuck between the centre of the rollers. And final big issue is the dry bearing roller bearing / bushes. Which has a honeycomb style of manufacturer and result in the hole becoming elongated and need replacing, if they were solid it must be better. In fact the honeycomb construction is very similar to the starter housing mounting bolt holes on the Kawasaki fj engines.
Are and dealers on here hearing of significant upgrades coming from Hayter?
Secondly a fair few people have jumped to buying Weibang roller mowers. As they are abusing contractors and don't like being told they are abusive and have repair bills for Hayter machines being repaired. So they buy a Weibang thinking it's a tank. Which granted with a Kawasaki engine and its significant weight it does feel well built. But surely too long and too heavy for most contractors. Main question is. For those that have worked on a few Weibang drive and Hayter drive systems. Which is actually better?
I was tasked on working on a legacy 56 roller and after the flimsy side panels were removed. The pointless spring clips removed around the sprockets and then the pins knocked out allowing the chain and sprockets to come off. Two screws each side easily came off with a plate each side.
Then it went down hill! A proper bearing each side of the roller frame. With no grease on was the enemy for the next hour or two. Completely corroded onto the roller shaft. Various methods of heat, pry bars and swear words were no match. Even when the outer ring of the housings were off and tried hitting the remainder on an anvil in true metal worker fashion they still wouldn't have come off. Not knowing how old this machine is however. Suggests these aren't the easiest to work on. I was told by a mechanic of 20+ years that he had one which was 3 months old and the bearings were seized on even then! And he refuses point blank to do drive work to a Weibang ever again!
Were we just unlucky or is there fundamental design issues of a lack of workshop ability on the weibangs? I know they have done few things to the drives over the years, most recent is a thicker roller shaft and thus everything else like shells are different to accommodate the thicker shaft as they were snapping. Like a cowboys leg.
The way the bearings are stuck even to the roller frame seems very odd to me and the fact so much effort is required with seemingly no sensible way of levering them off is daft. When stuck onto the shaft it reminds of of the old Hayter's from 2006-2018 with the crap roller bearings then which seized on but you could just about get crowbar under them or a puller but you had access to attack them.
So what's worse? Hayter which realistically commercially lasts a year at most. But easy and quick and relatively cheap to rebuild. Or a drive from Weibang which lasts longer but is a nightmare to work on with everything seized on, metal on metal. ?
Cheers.
Ultimately there are still issues in my option. Roller shells are made out of too thin metal. The chain guard should be all metal and made out of harder wearing metal. Seen loads where a hole has appeared through the metal strip. There's still load of mud and mud balls that get stuck between the centre of the rollers. And final big issue is the dry bearing roller bearing / bushes. Which has a honeycomb style of manufacturer and result in the hole becoming elongated and need replacing, if they were solid it must be better. In fact the honeycomb construction is very similar to the starter housing mounting bolt holes on the Kawasaki fj engines.
Are and dealers on here hearing of significant upgrades coming from Hayter?
Secondly a fair few people have jumped to buying Weibang roller mowers. As they are abusing contractors and don't like being told they are abusive and have repair bills for Hayter machines being repaired. So they buy a Weibang thinking it's a tank. Which granted with a Kawasaki engine and its significant weight it does feel well built. But surely too long and too heavy for most contractors. Main question is. For those that have worked on a few Weibang drive and Hayter drive systems. Which is actually better?
I was tasked on working on a legacy 56 roller and after the flimsy side panels were removed. The pointless spring clips removed around the sprockets and then the pins knocked out allowing the chain and sprockets to come off. Two screws each side easily came off with a plate each side.
Then it went down hill! A proper bearing each side of the roller frame. With no grease on was the enemy for the next hour or two. Completely corroded onto the roller shaft. Various methods of heat, pry bars and swear words were no match. Even when the outer ring of the housings were off and tried hitting the remainder on an anvil in true metal worker fashion they still wouldn't have come off. Not knowing how old this machine is however. Suggests these aren't the easiest to work on. I was told by a mechanic of 20+ years that he had one which was 3 months old and the bearings were seized on even then! And he refuses point blank to do drive work to a Weibang ever again!
Were we just unlucky or is there fundamental design issues of a lack of workshop ability on the weibangs? I know they have done few things to the drives over the years, most recent is a thicker roller shaft and thus everything else like shells are different to accommodate the thicker shaft as they were snapping. Like a cowboys leg.
The way the bearings are stuck even to the roller frame seems very odd to me and the fact so much effort is required with seemingly no sensible way of levering them off is daft. When stuck onto the shaft it reminds of of the old Hayter's from 2006-2018 with the crap roller bearings then which seized on but you could just about get crowbar under them or a puller but you had access to attack them.
So what's worse? Hayter which realistically commercially lasts a year at most. But easy and quick and relatively cheap to rebuild. Or a drive from Weibang which lasts longer but is a nightmare to work on with everything seized on, metal on metal. ?
Cheers.