Hi. Can anyone help in identifying the model of this trimmer. I am after the blades for it. I presume th23 is the engine model.
Thanks in advance
Jack

Don't deal much in repairing toros down here in the south west, Is this one of the models where the gearbox is pulled back by the cable to tension. If so check the box is returning back properly and check the cable isn't gone stiff, if the belt is griping the pulley it will probably lock the wheels. If you haven't looked already the toro parts list is on the Web it looks fairly simple setup

Hi all,
I was wondering if anyone had clutch bolt issues with the John deere x540, I have now seen 2 of the same model go the same way where the clutch bolt sheers off in use dropping the clutch. This has happened twice on each. The first one we replaced ourselves when I worked for a chap before he retired
It was fine for a couple of years and went again. I had far to much on at the time so passed it onto the the area main JD agents they replaced crankshaft and clutch and as far as I know it's still going OK it was done last year. The second machine went at a similar time as the first machine but as my boss was in Hospital at the time and I was still learning the trade I didn't have the confidence to take it on without a bit of guidance so he passed that to the same JD agent they replaced crankshaft and clutch but this time it failed quickly think he said it was just over a year and JD wouldn't honor the repair and claim there is no issue with the model the agent says they have done a couple of the same model over the years. To me that would suggest there is an issue with that model, my thoughts are that it could be to do with the belt putting pressure on the clutch that if I remember right sits quite shallow on the end of the shaft compared to other models. Anyway the customer kicked up a stink to the JD agent and I think they are putting it right at their expense the boss man is overseeing it and carrying out vibration tests and all sorts. Anyone else have experience of this issue and input on what might be causing this.

Is it a dellorto carb fitted to that engine.

Echo is great gear definitely check it out. Have you considered a 4wd mower westwood/countax that would meet your needs 42" xrd deck and sweeper.

You could always add some ceveron tyres to the rear wheels of your ride on get good grip then. If you like walking behind a mower as much as you like stimming maybe something along the lines of a toro timemaster or cub cadets equivalent could do the job.

Hi Mick, it wasn't dead parallel but I've seen worse run better, so for avoidance of doubt I had a seat kit here so changed it anyway sadly no better.

Hi all,
Hope everyone is keeping well in these odd times. Im after some advice if possible on a problem I have with a briggs engine 126t02-6280-h1. It came in with a carb full of water which by the looks of the sun damaged bodywork isn't a supprise the story is that it had run poorly for a while at all times then stopped the guy tried to clean carb himself but gave up now it's with me. Anyway I've cleaned the carb in US cleaner, it been put back together and now starts first pull every time hot ot cold however it runs rough as hell as if it's seeking its fuel till its nice and warm probably for 2-3 minutes once its warm it runs nicely. Additionally I've cleaned tank and fitted new fuel hose new air filter and plug checked plug gap and ignition gap and check intake for cracks and replaced oring. Any help understanding what's going one here would be great.
Thanks
Jack

All about the £ margins why make at £2 gear and sell it for  £10 when you can make a whole motor for £15 and sell it for £67. Like most modern crap made in China and designed to fail and be replaced often.

Evening,

Today while playing with one of the newer type Honda engines GCV160 I came across a problem I've not encountered before.
The mower came in running rough (and got the usual while you got it give it a service line) done all usual steps checking cap, fuel line/flow, changing the air filter and plug and checking if any better but it was now a pig to start which it wasn't before, it would start 2 pulls on choke run to get warm and in theory when stopped it should start first pull but it wouldn't it would take 5/6 coughing in the process. I then stripped the carb and cleaned in US tank. Refitted carb after cleaning and fitted new carb gaskets, again it was a pig to start although once started it ran a little lumpy initially and then ran nice. I stopped it and tried to restart and as above it took 5/6 and would start better on lower throttle speed. Anyway this was now a real headscratcher the carb clean got it running real nice so it has to be something really stupid. Mulling over what I had done I checked the plug gap was correct and looked at the old air filter and noticed the filter I had changed being the original on a 6 year old mower was of orange colour with like a wax strip on the wire mesh side. the filter I fitted was a non genuine filter bought from Stens, once a mower is out of warranty I usually fit non genuine filters and never had a problem. So I decided to get a genuine Honda filter and fit as by this time I'm clutching at straws, it turned up and was different to the original and was more like the non genuine one I had fitted no wax strip the only visible difference was the darker green of the paper element part anyway I fitted it and would you believe it made all the difference. starts and runs perfect now. The genuine part number matches across to the non genuine filter I had initially fitted in the stens book. 
So my question now as I'm rather baffled is why? The chaps at the honda dealers I use for parts cant explain why its made a difference so has anyone else had this sort of problem before or can find me an answer.                           

I presume you have tried kawasaki I had a clutch for an old strimmer of theirs and was so surprised they still had it in stock