Hi Brian, and welcome to TGMforum.

You'll notice the cable is running through a little guide to make it run at the correct angle.  You'll need to undo the small bolt (54) on that guide and the long nut (109) (where the cable chain goes in to the gearbox) that holds that guide onto the gearbox spindle, then rotate the chain part anti clockwise to unscrew the end of the speed cable from the gearbox.

Quote from: Eric G on December 10, 2024, 10:49:05 AMI found that I don't need to remove it to get at the air filter - it just pulls up from the outside

Eric, I do apologise. When I looked at that diagram I did wonder if it pulled straight out of the top, but then thought it was just a cutaway picture showing where it goes. In my defence I did say I've never seen one of those machines before. 

We both learnt something.    Perhaps a good time to give it a clean up under there while it's off.   
 

Eric, no problem.  If you look at the part list in the link I gave you it shows the screw on the rear of the cover number 14

Let me know how it goes. 

Hi Eric, and welcome to TGMForum.

I haven't seen one of those machines, but according to this parts diagram online, it's part listed 17. https://www.sgarden.cz/SpareParts/PartList/274183/Crankcase

I suspect you'll have to remove the top cover to access it, looks like two screws to get it off.

Sorry Rick, I don't have access to the Honda official parts list atm, so can't even try to look it up.

Trouble with this site is there's not many members here currently with inside knowledge, something I'm trying to grow. They al seem to reside on social media which to me is a nightmare to find anything.  I always think forums are better for this kind of thing because info doesn't get lost after a few minutes. 

Just curious, and because I'm not sure exactly what model it is.  Is the carburettor on the back of the engine? Or on the side opposite the exhaust?

Not sure of the exact figure, but I guess it should run ok if between 90 - 120 psi. I very  rarely use a compression tester as over the years I've got a feel feel how good or bad it is.  Do you suspect the compression is low?

Sounds like you're getting there with that machine.  The tilt on the gearbox is pretty crucial, and it doesn't need to change much to make a difference. Luckily yours is adjustable which is great.  Some get twigs or stones jammed in the belt and it just bends the bracket and tilts the box forwards.   

Fingers crossed the belt will help. 

Hi Rick, and welcome to TGMForum. 

One is basically a newer version of the other, but I think you'll find everything is different in some way, even the engine although same range there will be some differences. 

The only way to determine the exact differences is to go through the parts lists and compare part numbers.  There's also differences between each of those models based on model and pin code so there's many variations.

Don't know why, but I seem to be getting tyre issues on my car lately. 

I had one tyre (near side front) that had a slow puncture which require pumping up every two or three weeks.  This got worse and started going down every couple of days.  I realised the tyre was getting pretty worn and probably wasn't worth repairing so new tyre fitted.  Three days later I notice the front offside has also lost pressure down to 12psi. 

Talking of tyres, I had to help out a friend who's car had a blowout on the way to work, You can see what's left of his tyre in the video.  Luckily the sides of the tyre stayed on the rim and actually protected it until he could pull over safely.

Hi Hilfa, and welcome to TGMForum.

First thing, are you sure the new carb is the correct one?  and have you made sure the gasket between carb and inlet is the correct way around, and that the little pulse hole lines up with both the carb an the inlet.  It needs the pulse from the crankcase to make the fuel pump work.

No problem, let us know how you get on.

Hi Mikezbitz, and welcome to TGMForum.

This system is the same as used on a lot of branded Chinese machines.  You need to make sure the split pully on the gearbox isn't hanging up and closes all the way when there's no belt pulling it open. 

Sometimes a belt will start to shred and wrap cords around the spindle making it bind or jam. Also make sure the belt is running the correct way around the two idler pulleys on the variator plate, and make sure the bearings are good. 

And one very important thing with this system. Although the belt measured correctly for length is might actually be too thin, in other words the belt might be worn on its edges, and this will make it appear to be too big, or loose.

Hope this gives you some starter points.

Also make sure the gearbox is sitting in the correct position and hasn't been tilted forward for some reason. 

The brake rod usually just has a lug welded to the side of it with a hole in it for the plunger to push into and lock it in place.

Regarding the axle, it's probably worn through or perhaps broken the retainer that sits in the groove in the shaft.  Hopefully you don't find any other damage in there.

Sorry for late reply as I've been ill with the Flu for a couple of days.  Well I know what I'd do if if it was my own machine, but I obviously can't advise you to bypass those safety switches. But as it has no cutter deck etc.

I would certainly at least bypass the switches one at a time for diagnosis purposes.

The parking brake usually is just a plunger with spring which hooks into the brake rod while the brake is applied, it just holds it there until you push the pedal again to let the plunger pop up and release the brake.