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Messages - Mick

#1
On Your Bench / Re: Stihl RM545 drive cable
October 31, 2024, 10:22:39 AM
Ahh yes the little cable guide might well help if it's broken or missing, cable might be getting hooked up on the handle tube when folding. 

Regarding obtaining a cable through the correct methods, there is occasionally a slip up even with an authorised dealer. It always pays to check the new cables against the old ones before fitting.  ;) 
#2
On Your Bench / Re: Stihl RM545 drive cable
October 30, 2024, 12:52:33 PM
Hi.  I agree the cable setup isn't good on these machines.

Does it have the correct cable fitted, as it shouldn't pull on the cable when folding the handles. There's so many different cables for these machines, some only about an inch or two different in length it's easy to get the wrong one. The dealer must look up the cable using all the numbers on the serial sticker to make sure.

I've never had to do this, but if it is the right one and the correct length etc you could try fitting some sort of cable clamp just to the cable under the hole in the deck to stop it pulling on it.

#3
Hi, and welcome to TGMF.

Thinking your best bet would be to find a good second hand one if someone is breaking a machine for parts, that said it might be just as bad as your one.  Can yours not be welded or repaired?

I have no idea if a deck from another model or brand will fit to be honest.
#4
On Your Bench / Re: Honda HRB535 information
October 24, 2024, 11:41:08 AM
Thanks.  You'll always be taking a gamble when the machine doesn't run, obviously you can't properly check the transmission or cutter clutch to see if they're working.  Assuming they are good it should be well worth the money.

On the other hand, if gearbox is suspect same with cutter clutch then you'll be throwing loads of money at it. And there's the fact that the engine doesn't run, hopefully just a fuel issue, but if it's a coil or something more major the same applies.

Makes me wonder why it's so cheap and why the seller doesn't get it repaired and either keep it or sell it for more.
#5
On Your Bench / Re: Honda HRB535 information
October 24, 2024, 11:24:44 AM
Is it a four wheeled one? Or does it have a rear roller?

Like any Honda, it depends if the transmission gearbox is ok as they can be really expensive to repair or replace.
#6
On Your Bench / Re: Hyundai Surging
October 23, 2024, 09:57:13 AM
Quote from: Changy on October 23, 2024, 09:24:19 AMThe Hyundai mowers use a strange set of gaskets and spacers on their carburettor. I found that it is easy to reassemble them incorrectly which results in air leaks. It's worth checking if your Hyundai is hunting or surging.

Absolutely, think I mentioned the gaskets in my second post above.  To be honest I don't know why they make them so complicated on these Chinese Honda lookalikes, but then Honda are also guilty of this. I seen so many GCV's with the gaskets the wrong way around where customers have had the carb off.
#7
On Your Bench / Re: Another vibrating mower
October 22, 2024, 11:20:01 AM
Yep, that took a hit.  I would still check the crank and make sure it's not bent. The bolt does look bent though. 
#8
Strimmers and BrushCutters / Re: Strimmer won’t spin
October 21, 2024, 11:10:07 AM
Quote from: Gastricj on October 21, 2024, 06:37:08 AMhi mick no I don't have one not sure where I can get one from either


Me neither unfortunately.  I did find this one for a Sanli bent shaft strimmer, hopefully it should be a similar build to give you an idea of how it's put together.

sanlibcs.png
#9
Strimmers and BrushCutters / Re: Strimmer won’t spin
October 21, 2024, 06:25:59 AM
I should imagine it would come apart, but I've not tried it so without a parts list I can't tell.  Do you have a parts list for this machine?
#10
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#11
On Your Bench / Re: Vibrating without blade engaged
October 20, 2024, 09:18:44 AM
Does sound like a bent crankshaft, it's pretty common to be honest.  Easily diagnosed by sitting machine on its side (Dipstick side down and spark plug removed) Just pull the starter rope and you'll see the blade wobbling like mad.

I have successfully straightened many of these over the years and got them spot on.  ;)
#12
On Your Bench / Re: B&S crankcase breather sealant
October 19, 2024, 07:57:41 AM
Quote from: Changy on October 19, 2024, 07:46:34 AMI may have some CT1 lurking in the depths of my garage. I used that to bond some parking distance brackets to a bumper and that stuff also held on as if its life depended on it!

What sort of temperature would that breather reach; I'm curious.

It get's pretty warm just as most of the crankcase does, but that CT1 should handle it ok.
#13
On Your Bench / Re: B&S crankcase breather sealant
October 19, 2024, 07:39:05 AM
Yep, that's why I mentioned Hondabond it does bond pretty well if if you've ever tried separating a crankcase or removing a valve cover from a Honda GCV engine you'd see the cover bend before the sealant gives up. ;) It's just a tad expensive.

I just remembered some other stuff you can get from any diy store or Screwfix Toolstation etc, it's called CT1 Adhesive sealant, this stuff is amazing and comes in various colours.  You'll end up finding many uses for it just as I did. It lasts for ages too.
#14
On Your Bench / Re: B&S crankcase breather sealant
October 18, 2024, 10:02:30 PM
I would just use either Honda's Hondabond sealant or the Stihl Dirko sealant. Both of these are resistant to high temps etc and should be easily obtainable online.

Just search Hondabond or Stihl Dirko




 
#15
Atco / Qualcast / Suffolk / Re: Kawasaki FS691V
October 18, 2024, 06:08:52 PM
Quote from: Malcolm B on October 18, 2024, 04:36:27 PMHi tried another pump. Still not flowing.
Checked all lines again and good flow from tank to pump (pump disconnected)
Cannot get flow through 3rd.2nd or 1st pump.
Will change all lines incase of pin hole somewhere BUT no fuel leakage.
Will change impulse line as well.



Very strange, I did say to check the impulse hose which you already said was ok.  It's got to be blocked somewhere, either the pulse hose itself has collapsed inside, or where it attaches is blocked in some way. Either that or you have a massive air leak from the crankcase or valve covers, but then I'd expect oil everywhere.  Also check that the fuel hose from tank to pump isn't collapsing when the pump sucks on it, it might flow with gravity but when pulled through. The hoses are made up of layers, like a hose liner within a outer sleeve.

You could always just to test this theory connect a suitable container of duel to the pump with a length of good hose directly to the pump and try it.

I hope you track it down, I'm also curious to know what's going on with it.