Hi Mick, hope you had a good Christmas.
I have noticed that winter service work has been a bit slower this year. There has been enough to keep us busy but not frantic which is actually quite relaxing.
Its down to the mid and wet autumn where the grass has not stopped growing and folk have been reluctant to send their kit in for service. Its going to come pouring in straight after the New Year, so dont worry, it always evens out.

Good plan to put the Honda motor on, but you will need a blade boss too and the handlebars are different. You will need the OPC bar and cable.

If the battery is good you could probably get a few quid on ebay, although technically you cannot send them by carrier as they are a restricted item. They are over £400 new!

Same applies for the charge which is £120 new.

Hello Guys!
Sorry, I have not looked in for months so only just seen this as a post appeared on my fb page somehow and reminded me!
Hope you are both keeping well.
Regards the 46hp li, maybe its sorted by now, or scrapped, or just sitting there awaiting inspiration!

I do have a trouble shooting manual for this that I can email you if you let me have your email, but TBH you are probably on a loser anyway.
Check all connections first, it may be that simple but I guess you have done that.
If you find you need a motor they are available at £210, but the PCB is not orderable and has no official part number according to the Siga dealer site.

The 80v system was technology that Stiga bought in from Greenworks and fitted to their own mowers. It was short lived whilst they developed their own unique 300,500,700 and 900 series kit all using the same 48volt batteries of their own design and manufacture which have proved to be very good. Unfortunateley the 80V stuff and many dedicated spares are now on very low stock or obsolete.
email me if you want the manual. barrie@gardenkit.co.uk

Hi mr vip.
To be honest I have yet to find a rear roller machine that does not suffer from issues with the rear roller. The problem is that the bearings are close to the ground as the rollers are nowhere near the diameter of the wheeled machines and the bearings simply get too wet in damp conditions and rust sets in. The plain brass bushes of the old boxy hayter were brilliant, but the freewheels which act as a differential suffered.
I have one particular pro customer with a Kaaz who has continuous roller and gearbox issues due to rust, but he cuts low and in any weather. Another guy with a Kaaz who does the same work but chooses the right conditions has had no transmission issues in years of service.
Likewise, one of the guys keeps the hinge area of the grassflap clean and is on the original flap, but the other guy allows grass to build up in the hinge area. This stops the grassbox going fully open and flexes the steel which subsequently cracks.
The Kaaz, Cobra and Lawnflite Pro are all the same machine and IMO are probably the best you can buy, but they still have their problems and the transmission/roller repairs can be costly.

Reference the dipstick length.
If your dipstick is 69mm long then it is the short dipstick which screws into a very short pipe protruding from the sump.
The long versions extend right up to the top of the engine recoil cowling to enable easier checking and filling.
Hope this helps.

Barrie

The answer is to swap to Aspen fuel which has Zero ethanol.

The metering lever should be about 1.5mm below the face of the carb. I say 'about' because I always use a gauge rather than a measuring stick, but its about 1.5mm.
With the still fitted, push down on the needle end and lever the long end up or down to set the height.

Hi Dave.
If its flooding instantly as it seems it may be, I would firstly be checking the diaphragms again to ensure that the metering diaphragm is fitted the right side of the gasket. Also ensuring that it is the correct diaphragm and a genuine Walbro too.
If the diaphragm is fitted too low it will be opening the metering valve too soon.
Also important to set he height of the metering arm (needle lever), if its too high it will flood easily.
Good luck

Hi Openspaceman. Sorry for the delay in a reply, only just looked in!
First thing to do is put a belt back on and try the transmmission. It could be that the belt is too loose and slipping, or that the clutch cable is slack, or broken. Tension the belt and take the slack out of the cable.
If this does not work remove the rear wheels and check the pinions and drive pawls. Leave a wheel off and see if the axle rotates under power.

If you need parts you will need to provide the exact model code as found on the ID plate. The R484 TR is sadly not enough as there were several variants.
Hope this helps

The 54" deck from John Deere is V belt driven as opposed to tooth belt. As Mick says, the blades cannot hit each other, but will change position relative to each other as they slip, as they are intended to. It does not matter if you try to set them as they will move anyway.

Sorry for my late reply Mick, just been a bit busy!
I have not bought one of  these to make sure its correct, but I looked on the Power Portal.
I looked for the starter motor on the IPL for model 104M05-0032-H1.

Know what you mean about the harnesses Mick. I am still using the stock of the first mod with the 'hard' connector block. The later ones are at the back of the shelf. Ot looks like they have the same 'hard' block, but simpler wiring with less connectors.

A bit of a late reply, but it does appear that the gear is available as an item with the bendix. Part no 799420. But it is nearly half of the starter price at £27.45 plus vat!

I have always thought the Harrier to be much over rated.
Poor collection, poor belt drive, weak gearbox, weak axle supports and weak plastic under body panels.
Apart from that it's a fantastic machine!

Not wishing to advocate this as standard procedure Mr Nomis, as just like you, servicing mowers is how I make my living, but you do have to admire these machines for being able to perform for 12 years with no servicing.
Same plug, same oil, same filter etc.
I see them too, and wonder in disbelief at the customers attitude.
But it suits some people to operate this way, and this particular customer has saved himself around £1200 on servicing over the mowers life.
He's probably going to get a hefty bill now though, but is going to see a massive difference in performance when he gets it back from you.

I have one old gent who bought a Mountfield SP42 from Screwyou & Queue on a Wednesday 15 years ago with OAP discount. I guess it cost him around £150 at the time.
I have serviced it every year since, and he only uses it in dry weather and keeps it in a clean, airy, shed.
It has now cost him around £1500 in servicing, but looks, and works, like new.

We see it all, don't we Mick?

Why do people think its OK to run their mower with no oil showing on the dipstick?

Or with the spark plug screwed in only finger tight?

Or handlebars completely loose and wobbly?

Or ride-ons with completely flat tyres?

Or ride-ons with the battery leads only finger tight?

And, more bewilderingly, how do they get away with it without mishap?!!!  If I accidentally left a sparkplug loose I can guarantee that it would blow out, leaving a hole in the bonnet before circling the earth twice, destroying the space station, and then re-entering the atmosphere and smashing the windscreen of the owners Porche.