Atco Commodore B14 cylinder always rotating

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Hi,
Wondering If anybody can help me out please.

I picked up what I believe to be a cheap B14, I've got the engine running and drive works fine.

However the cylinder is constantly rotating without handle being engaged. I've tried adjusting the cable tension in both directions but it does nothing.

I am at a loss what to do.

Many thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.

Thanks. (Please do move if I've posted in wrong section or would be better elsewhere)

[Mick]

Hi and welcome to TGMF.

It's a job to say exactly what's wrong without seeing it, but I would check to see if the clutch plates have got stuck due to standing around and not being used.

If you remove the top cover you should see what the clutch is doing. Just be careful not to break the fiber plates as they are brittle and quite expensive If I remember correctly 

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Thanks for welcome and the reply.

I've checked the clutch plates and they are moving freely.

There doesn't seem any play in the spring on the clutch shaft that meets the withdrawal collar. (Dont know if there should be). On the b14 there isnt an adjustment collar like on the b17 and b20.

[Mick]

Not sure if this will help, but here's a breakdown of the main clutch.

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Thanks, I have the diagram. Mover came with all the manuals etc. All these complete and in the right order.

[Mick]

The spring and collar you mentioned is the one that pushes the clutch into the engaged state.  The arm via the cable releases the tension from that spring to disengage the clutch.  So if this is all working correctly and the cable is pushing it apart, I suspect the output shaft is perhaps seized in the bushing in the middle of the clutch.  That said they are normally a pretty loose fit.

So difficult to diagnose, I would just pull it apart and check everything if it were in front of me. 

Does it slip at all when disengaged? 

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Shouldn't the cable release tention on the spring to 'engage' the clutch to then drive the cylinder? Do you think the withdrawal collar could be sized?

[Mick]

Could you try and attach a image of your clutch to a reply. Or is your clutch exactly like the one in the diagram?

The clutch in the diagram above has a spring (number 728) which keeps the clutch engaged until you pull the cable to disengage it.

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When the control lever on the handle bar is lifted/operated the cable is tensioned which moves the arm away from the withdrawal collar next to that spring on the clutch arm

[Mick]

Oh, I forgot it works backwards (sorry).  The spring at the bottom should be strong enough to override the main spring. So as long as the cable is long enough to allow that it should work.  It looks in the photo that clutch arm is very close to the tube bolted on to the chassis.

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[quote It looks in the photo that clutch arm is very close to the tube bolted on to the chassis.
[/quote]

I'm not sure what you mean/referring to?

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https://oldlawnmowerclub.co.uk/sites/default/files/opmanual/Atco%20Commodore%20B14-B17-B20.pdf

I've tried everything in this manual with no luck

[Mick]

[quote It looks in the photo that clutch arm is very close to the tube bolted on to the chassis.

I'm not sure what you mean/referring to?

I meant the bottom of the clutch arm looked very close to the handle tube but it's probably just the angle of the photo. 

So when you release the clutch lever does the (Withdrawal sleeve Part 31) move away to release the friction plates as it should? If it does then at a guess you either have a friction plate sticking to one of the metal plates, or something going on with the bushing (part 5) which is driving the shaft (part 9) when it shouldn't.

Part 5 must turn freely on part 9 or it will drive all the time.

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Thanks for your help Mick I really appreciate it.

The withdrawal collar doesn't move at all when the clutch lever is operated.

Also tensioning or untensioning the cable adjusters doesn't move the arm closer or further away from the withdrawal collar.

The inner cables are running smoothly and freely inside their outers

Thanks so much again